From Mont Saint Michel to Saint Malo in 4 days
This first part of the GR34 will take us from Mont Saint Michel to Saint Malo. Two emblematic cities that deserve much more than just being stopover cities on a GR... So, if like me you arrive the day before, go visit Mont Saint Michel...which will give you the opportunity to take a beautiful night photo of the starting point of the GR 34...the Mont Saint Michel dam. A few tips before telling you about the division of the stages of this itinerary.
How come ? - By car: to Rennes then direction Pontorson and Mont St Michel ... you will easily find free parking lots in Beauvoir to leave your car for a few days (2 kilometers from the start) ... do not try to get closer , the car parks are paying and expensive to stay there for several days. Remember to notify the town hall if you were to stay there for more than a week. - By train: From Paris: Paris/Rennes/St Malo + bus St Malo/Mont St Michel :( Paris/Caen/Mont St Michel :) - By Bus: From Paris: Paris (Pont de Levallois)/Caen/Mont St Michel - BlaBlacar also of course (carpooling)
How do I get back to my starting point? Mont Saint-Michel! And yes ! leaving is good but coming back is imperative!! As a reminder the GR34 and a straight line (well not so straight) and not a loop...so plan the return - By train: St Malo/Dol de Bretagne/Pontorson + bus Pontorson/Beauvoir/Mont St Michel (interesting to visit Dol de Bretagne if you take the variant) - By Bus: St Malo/Mont St Michel (reservation website link)
Where to stay ? - When camping: you will find them at all the stages that I suggest (we see that later) - In lodgings or refuge: there too no problem - At the hotel: for more comfort ...and a lighter bag :)
Drink and eat!! - In a gite, in a refuge or at the hotel, no problem, a meal will be served to you in the evening (for the day, same solution as for campsites) - When camping: you need to plan stops in the shops you will come across or at the restaurant for the evening (I explain all that below)
After these few tips, it's time to start our trip on the GR34 As I have already told you, I arrived the day before by car (from Toulouse it's easier..+ a few BlaBlacar passengers)...So stop at the Beauvoir campsite "camping aux pommiers".
After setting up my tent and buying a pizza in the village for dinner ... visit Mont St Michel which is 3 kilometers away. It's easy follow the dike it's straight. Plus a beautiful sunset
The next day after a good night's sleep, I left for my first day. Two options are available to me, either the classic route (5 to 6 days 88 kilometers) or the variant (4 to 5 days and 75 kilometers) Before leaving, I had chosen the variant to change blogs which only speaks of the classic way. Variant route in blue on the map below (in green classic route)
The advantage of the variant, you discover the Polders and you start gently (zero elevation) unlike the classic route where you have to climb towards St Marclan and Mont Dol (which still allows you to admire the bay from several point of view) The disadvantage of the variant is its monotony along the bay. A long straight line of several kilometers along the polders. Fortunately the herds of sheep from the salt meadows and the farmers working their fields occupy your mind a little.
Here is the itinerary for day 1
After a few kilometers you will come across this sign indicating the GR34 by the classic route or the variant ... it's up to you to see which route to take?
So I continue on the variant until Cherrueix. It's 1 p.m....a little rest watching the sand yachts before heading back to St Benoit des Ondes where I planned to spend the night at the Ile verte campsite
I finally arrive at St Benoit des Ondes at the end of the afternoon. This first stage was very long (30 kilometres), you can divide it into 2 by stopping at Cherrueix, where you will find gites (la palourdine or accommodation), a campsite (Tenzor de la baie) or a hotel ( Domaine de l'Aumone)... Or stop in the town of Vivier sur Mer located 3 kilometers from Cherrueix (no campsite but gites)
Day 2: from Saint Benoit des Ondes to Pointe du Grouin via Cancale
This second day is totally different. The topology and vegetation has changed. I discover there small hidden bays, passages in a more luxuriant vegetation, maritime pines, an emerald sea!!
At midday I cross Cancale and these oyster beds. This city is really very beautiful (and touristy)...I have lunch quietly on the quay watching the boats and the comings and goings of the tractors working on the offshore parks. Many tourists come to the port to taste a platter of freshly picked oysters with a small glass of white wine (in moderation). Personally I enjoy a good sausage / fries much more suitable for a hiker than a few oysters :)
To leave, cross the port and take the very steep climb on your left which takes you to the heights of Cancale. From Cancale to Pointe du Grouin, the path is steep, constantly going up and down you will discover magnificent views. Finally I arrive at the municipal campsite near the tip of Grouin. I set up my tent facing the sea. Tonight I would eat at the hotel / restaurant located not far from there. Once again, a spectacular view on this rocky outcrop.
Day 3: From Pointe du Grouin to Saint Coulomb
This day will have been the most beautiful. All along this route, I follow isolated coves, fine sandy beaches with no one on the horizon, small typical villages... A real treat for the eyes. With each step a new discovery. At the end of the day, I stop at the Chevrets campsite, very nice with large trees protecting from the sun The campsite snack will serve me a hearty hamburger :)
Day 4: from Saint Couloumb to Saint Malo
If the other 3 days I lazy under the tent (departure around 9am)... Today departure at 6am :( .
I have to be at St Malo station before 10:30 am, for a return to Mont Saint Michel... And yes!! the famous return that must be expected!!
The 16 kilometers of this day must be swallowed in 4 hours. I would still take the time to do some sightseeing, in particular crossing the pretty town of Rothéneuf and the Pointe de la Varde before reaching St Malo by the 3 km long beach (the GR passes through the ramparts ). The sea is at low tide, I take this opportunity to gain some time.
Here I am finally on the beach of St Malo...And on time.
You can of course visit St Malo and sleep in various hotels or campsites. For my part, already knowing St Malo, I reach the station a quarter of an hour's walk from the beach. For ten euros, the train will take me from St Malo to Pontorson via Dol de Bretagne. Which will allow me to visit this magnificent city.
Then I would take the train back to Pontorson and the bus to Beauvoir where my car was quietly waiting for me to return home. You also have the solution of taking the bus directly to Mont St Michel from Saint Malo if you don't have time to visit Dol de Bretagne.
I hope to have made you want to discover this GR. It is within reach of an average walker, there is no technical difficulty. Only a few steps can be a bit long sometimes, but you can cut them as you like. I will make you discover the other sections of this GR that I have already done in another Post.